2010 Lignier-Michelot Morey St. Denis Vielles Vignes

Hello friends. We have today what is, at the time of writing, the best tariff in the country (normal retail is $65) on a crystalline example of the 2010 vintage in Burgundy. The only drawback is quantity available, but if we run out, you can see that there seem to be bottles available on the east coast and west coast for just a few dollars more.

This is a happy period for Burgundy buying, with two high-quality vintages on the market that couldn’t be more different stylistically. I’ll hand the mic over to a true Burg authority, Allen Meadows of Burghound (for anyone who cares about this region, a Burghound subscription is a necessity):

“[TEXT WITHHELD].”

If you’re just beginning to explore Burgundy, tasting 2009 and 2010 side by side would be a wise move, because you can learn for a wine-buying lifetime whether you prefer a high-quality, ripe vintage (2009) or a high-quality, classic vintage (2010).

We’ll be focusing more on the 2010s, because for my palate anyway, if you’re going to drink ripe Burgundy, you might as well drink Willamette Valley. When it comes to Burg, I want a classic, and that’s what we have today:

Lignier-Michelot is a domaine whose star is on the rise. Virgile Lignier took over the domaine in 2000 as third generation in the family, and the wines have improved steadily since. He implemented modernization in the family vineyard holdings (ditching herbicides, for example) and the winery, and praise soon followed. Writing recently of Virgile’s 2010 vintage, Allen Meadows called Lignier-Michelot’s style “[TEXT WITHHELD].” High praise from a critic not prone to it, and bound to thrust this under-the-radar producer further into the limelight.

Virgile and his family have holdings in Chambolle Musigny and Gevrey Chambertin, but the heart of their holding, and the location of the winery itself, is Morey St. Denis. They produce three 1er Crus from MSD (Charmes, Chenevrey, and Faconnieres; see map here), and then this Vielles Vignes bottle, a shimmering introduction to the house style.

Virgile includes 50% whole clusters here, and this sees about 15% new oak. The nose displays terrific complexity, especially after about an hour open: cherry, red raspberry, mineral, bramble, flower; it’s a swirling mass of goodies. The palate is ethereal, a transparent expression of MSD terroir. There is so much stuffing here, and it’s clear this wine’s best days are a few years ahead of it. But still, I found it irresistible after an hour in the decanter, a big ball of gravel and red fruit and soaring inner-mouth perfume. Complexity, minerality, wildness: everything that makes us fall in love with Burgundy is here.

Please limit order requests to 6 bottles, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wine should arrive in about a week, at which point it will be available for pickup or shipping during the spring shipping window.

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