“…not far from the so called river Piave….we grant and donate…a land with goats, vineyards, meadows, grazing lands, woods, willows, stables, shores, banks, mills, fishing, hills, valleys, plantations, waters and courses of rivers, forests…”
With those words (written in Latin), King Berengario II granted a huge piece of land to the Collalto family. The year was 958 AD. More than one thousand years later, the family continues to work this spectacular piece of land, and the goats, vineyards, et al remain.
This is one of those spots on planet Earth that just looks like pure magic. I’ve spent the past thirty minutes drooling over a series of Borgoluce videos (the phrase “ricotta bellissimo” was almost enough to get me on a plane) that show how many different activities are going on at the estate.
The family is engaged in the following: raising animals (cows, pigs, sheep, goats, horses); making charcuterie (salamis, ossocollo, pancetta); making dairy products (buffalo mozzarella, ricotta [bellissimo!!], stracchino, caciotta, robiola, yogurt); milling grains (marano flour for yellow polenta, biancoperla flour for white polenta); producing extra virgin olive oil, producing honeys (acacia, wildflower); running an osteria; running an agritourismo.
And growing Glera grapes and turning them into ethereal Prosecco.
Borgoluce comes close to being a closed loop. They generate power through windmills, and the fertilizer for their vineyards comes from their estate’s “organic animal matter,” which is as nice a euphemism as I’ve seen for that particular item. The family is committed to sharing their piece of land in as many ways as possible, and that commitment is part of what makes this wine exciting.
I’ve tasted a lot of Prosecco this year, much of it pedestrian, but this was a real standout. With relatively low dosage, it drinks extremely dry, all chalk and mineral and lemon. It reminded me of sparkling wines from Savoie with its alpine character. But the aromatics definitely speak of Prosecco: lightly floral, delicate, peachy. The mousse is fairly aggressive in the mouth, a big whack of scrubbing bubbles to freshen up the palate and ready you for your next bite of food.
This is classy juice in a classy package, and I usually drink it unadorned. But I will admit that on occasion, an idea latches onto my brain like a leech. That idea: Bellini. And when that thought arrives, Borgoluce makes a Bellini about as delicious as it gets.
First come first served up to 24 bottles, and the wine should arrive in about a week, at which point it will be available for pickup or shipping during the spring shipping window.