2009 OS Winery “BSH” Cabernet Sauvignon

Hello friends. I’ve always had a soft spot for OS Winery. The first bottle I had was the 2003 OS Ulysses, and I consumed most of it in the sauna at The Sleeping Lady in Leavenworth (Washington’s Bavarian paradise!).

(Let me pause here and say that, among the worst possible places to consume a big red wine, a sauna has to be in the top five. Drinking wine while shvitzing is a *terrible* idea that I have not repeated since.)

Rob Sullivan (the ‘S’ in OS) was among the first to review the Full Pull business plan back when this venture was a glimmer in my eye. An OS wine (2004 Ulysses) was the fifth wine we ever offered through Full Pull, way back on October 14, 2009.

Back in those days, BSH (which officially stands for the initials of Rob’s grandson and unofficially stands for BrickShitHouse) retailed for $38. Today we’re able to offer it for considerably less:

Wine Spectator (Harvey Steiman): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. 91pts.”

OS has been going through some changes recently. Bill Owen (the ‘O’) is no longer with OS, and beginning with the 2013 harvest, Scott Greer of Sheridan Vineyard will be the consulting winemaker. OS sources a good amount of fruit from Sheridan, so this seems like a good fit going forward.

For now, though, we have access to a lovely bottle of 2009 Cabernet, at a tariff rarely seen for the vineyards involved: Champoux, Ciel de Cheval, Sheridan, Klipsun, Dineen. There’s 15% Cabernet Franc and 8% Merlot in the mix as well, and it starts with a deep nose of crème de cassis and black cherry. The palate sees densely packed layers of fruit – berry, cherry, even suggestions of stone fruit like peach and nectarine – surrounded by wonderful graphite minerality and a dusting of high-cacao chocolate. There’s savory beetroot here, barrel nuance of espresso; the list goes on. It’s a complex beauty, and in the fleshy 2009 vintage – which has produced plenty of dullards – it’s a real standout, unusual for its seriousness, its structure, its depth of character. I expect it will continue to unfurl beautifully in the coming years.

I doubt we’re the only ones with access to this price drop, and at total production of 160 cases, I can’t imagine this will be around for long. But for now, let’s open it up: first come first served up to 24 bottles, and the wine should arrive in about a week, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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