2010 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

Hello friends. Quick turnaround today on an offering originally scheduled for later this spring. We moved it up in the calendar after learning that it’s set to receive a stellar review from Paul Gregutt in the March issue of Wine Enthusiast.

Wine Enthusiast (Paul Gregutt): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. 95pts.”

Greg Harrington has been at the vanguard of a burgeoning movement in Washington, away from the excesses of the early 2000s and towards wines low in alcohol and oak and high in purity and terroir-expressiveness. And so I can only imagine that he and Assistant Winemaker Brandon Moss saw the back-to-back cool vintages of 2010 and 2011 as manna from the wine gods, perfect climatological canvases on which to paint a series of masterpieces.

This is a single-vineyard Cab (although it doesn’t say so on the bottle), coming entirely from Phinny Hill, just up the hill from Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills, a site that is rapidly becoming one of the most sought-after vineyards in Washington for Cabernet Sauvignon (here’s what the Gramercy folks say about Phinny: “I’m telling you: Phinny is where it’s at—hillsides, higher altitude, gravel. It’s an insane property.”) It clocks in at 13.9% alc, and was raised for just shy of two years in 40% new French oak.

What you notice right away with this wine is the texture, that magical, all-too-rare combination of energy and suaveness. Is it nervy? Is it fleshy? Well, yes and yes; it’s someplace in between. And really, that’s what this wine is – a tweener – seeming to borrow the very best aspects of old world and new world styles. You could easily confuse it for a wine from the Medoc, with all its graphitic minerality and cedar and dried herb, but there’s just enough polish, enough generosity to the mint-inflected cassis fruit, to turn you towards the new world. A classic Cabernet in so many ways, this is especially attractive for its seamlessness, and for how it builds like a wave towards its long, powerful finish, all dusty/leafy Cabernet-tannin chew.

I suspect this will disappear soon after that Gregutt review gets into wide circulation. Because the reorder prospects are spotty, I’m going to open up the order-request limits, but we don’t yet have a guarantee on an allocation amount, so apologies in advance if our allocations end up considerably lower than expected. Please limit order requests to 24 bottles, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wine should arrive in about a week, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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