Hello friends. Today we have the return of one of the most fascinating projects going on in Washington currently, the remarkably mature wines of Kendall Mix’s Lawrelin Cellars.
We kicked things off in August 2013 with an offer of Kendall’s 2000 and 2001 vintages. Now that he has sold through those two, it’s time to move onto the ‘02s. As a reminder, Sean Sullivan wrote a great, detailed article about Lawrelin for Washington Wine Report, and I encourage you to check it out if you have time. If you don’t have time, the summary version is:
Kendall has worked in Washington winemaking since 1993, going from Chateau Ste Michelle (breeding ground of many a fine Washington winemaker), to a memorable stint at Corliss, to Goose Ridge, and now to Cadaretta. But beginning in 2000, he started setting aside barrels for his own label, with the intention of adding evidence to the argument that Washington wines can age in magnificent directions.
Still, even Kendall didn’t anticipate holding the wines this long. I suspect the additional delays (which seem to have lasted for years, not months) have centered on the fact that Kendall is a Canadian citizen (born in Edmonton) launching an American business to release American alcohol. So let’s stop and thank all the earnest bureaucrats who contributed to these wines being released a full dozen years past vintage. We couldn’t have done it without you!
As you’d expect, these wines are well matured and are throwing significant sediment, so pour carefully or decant. Many thanks to Kendall for continuing to consider Full Pull as the right fit for these beautiful mature wines.
Washington Wine Report (Sean Sullivan): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. Rating: ***** (Exceptional).”
As Sean notes, this comes partly from Kiona on Red Mountain, partly from Clifton, one of the Milbrandt brothers’ sites on the Wahluke Slope. It opens with a nose of dried cherry, air-dried olives, beef jerky, espresso, and mole poblano. Extremely complex, clearly mature. On the palate the fruit has a dried character (as you’d expect from a wine this old) and is plenty rich, married to great earthy soil tones. Texturally, this is as supple as you’d expect, with all rough edges sanded down by bottle age. I’d put this at about two-thirds of the way through a ten-year peak drinking window running from 2007-2017. No need to cellar this puppy endlessly; it’s a total immediate gratification play, and a lovely one at that.
I was thrilled that our 2007 Full Pull & Friends Cabernet Sauvignon landed the #2 spot on Sean Sullivan’s Insta-Cellar category for his Seattle Met Magazine Top 100. I was even happier to lose out on the #1 spot to Lawrelin: Seattle Met Magazine (Sean Sullivan): “[TEXT WITHHELD].”
I found this nose to exhibit loads of tertiary Cabernet notes: plenty of mushroom and leather to go with earth, peat-smoke, and dried blackcurrant fruit. An earthy Bordeaux ringer on the palate, it texturally offers tannins combed to a fine sheen, a last little kiss of chamomile chew rapidly integrating. The finish is exquisite, offering a lingering leafy crepuscular earthiness that is charming, seductive, a reminder of why mature wines have their own brand of bawdy sway.
Please limit order requests to 12 bottles of each wine, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wines should arrive in about a week, at which point they will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.