2010 San Felice Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni

Hello friends. Since most Brunellos di Montalcino are not released until more than four years after harvest, we’re just now beginning to see the arrival of the heralded 2010 vintage. How heralded, you ask? Pretty damned heralded:

Vinous (Antonio Galloni): “[TEXT WITHHELD].”

Wine Enthusiast (Monica Larner): “[TEXT WITHHELD].”

Cue feeding frenzy. As you’d expect, with this level of critical buzz, the 2010 Brunellos are not going to be the easiest wines in the world to source. We’re going to be looking at a lot of pre-sells, especially for wines that have already been reviewed positively, and we’re going to be looking at a lot of tight allocations.

Fortunately, one of the best received Brunellos of the vintage comes from a familiar producer to Full Pull list members, and because of our list’s long support of the winery across the breadth of its portfolio, we’re being offered a sizeable chunk of this crown jewel, despite the fact that it already has a screaming review from Spectator:

Wine Spectator (Bruce Sanderson): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. 95pts.”

I’d say this one has a puncher’s chance at winding up on Spectator’s year-end Top 100 list. They’ll likely want to include a 2010 Brunello due to the acclaim of the vintage, and right now, the seven wines with stronger reviews (six 96pt reviews and one 98pt review) range in price from $60 to $190, and all are smaller production than San Felice’s. Since Spectator factors in score, price, and availability (production), San Felice seems like a strong candidate.

Now to date, we’ve focused almost exclusively on San Felice’s glorious Chianti portfolio, but they also quietly own a 65-hectare estate called Campogiovanni, on the southwestern side of Montalcino, deep in the heart of Brunello country. They purchased the estate in the early ‘80s, when Brunello was still a sleepy category, and have carefully tended it since. Twenty of the hectares are planted to vines (and fourteen of those twenty are used for Brunello production), and the remainder in olives and forest. It looks like this. [Sigh. Must visit.]

This is a traditional Brunello, aged for about three years mostly in large, neutral Slavonian botti before spending another year in bottle. The parcel destined for Seattle is still on the water, scheduled to land at the port on April 15. Because of the feeding frenzy effect, waiting and trying to score a sample bottle is not going to be possible. Given the quality of the producer and the consistency of previous vintages, I’m confident this will deliver the goods as expected.

We have to submit our own request on Tuesday morning. Please try to get all order requests in by Monday night, so that we can advocate for a parcel that accurately reflects our members’ wishes. And note: this one is unlikely to be available for reorder. Please limit order requests to 12 bottles, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wine should arrive in the next week or two, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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