Full Pull Stone River

Hello friends. We were recently offered an excellent price on a peak-drinking wine from the Beresan stash that still sells for $32 winery-direct. The only catch: we had to commit to a substantial parcel. Given our list’s enduring love for these winery-aged Beresan parcels over the past few years, I hesitated for approximately no seconds before saying yes:

2009 Beresan Stone River
Wine & Spirits Magazine (Patrick Comiskey): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. 92pts.”

The “stone river” in question is the ancient Walla Walla riverbed that comprises the majority of the Rocks District, home to the Beresan estate vineyards that comprise this bottling. This wine – a blend of 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Syrah, 20% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc – is meant not to express any one variety, but instead to express the very special terroir in which it is grown, with cobblestones galore.

Beresan really is one of the gems of the Walla Walla Valley, and it starts with their outstanding estate vineyards, farmed by Tom Waliser (one of the valley’s finest growers). Waliser Vineyard was planted in 1997, Yellow Jacket in 1999. That is early as far as the rocks are concerned. All this beautiful rocks fruit was brought to bottle by Tom Glase, who makes Beresan wines in addition to his own Balboa lineup. The wine spent about two years in barrel, and now has another four to five years of bottle age. Just right.

The nose is in an exciting place, clearly developing, right in that place where it toes the line between youthfulness and maturity. There’s cherry and charcoal, turned earth and tarragon. The palate (14.6% listed alc) continues the theme, offering a maturing mix of fresh and dried fruits and earth, a smattering of cocoa powder, and wonderful insistent inner mouth perfume and spice. The structure is still fairly prominent here – with bright acid and softening-but-present tannins – which makes me think this has years left in the tank. So too does this wine’s response to time and air, which was to display an emerging salty brininess, a note of salt-cured black olives that ramped up the complexity even further.

I think we have a large enough parcel to cover everyone, but just in case, let’s please limit order requests to 12 bottles. The wine is in the warehouse and ready for immediate pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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