Full Pull Anniversary Week 5 of 5: Funk Plus Funk

Hello friends. Today brings us to the end of our Anniversary Week series. Full Pull launched about seven years ago (!), on October 5, 2009, and we use the occasion of our anniversary week to blast out some of our most compelling offers of the year. This is the fifth and final in our quintet of Anniversary Week offers, and it’s a doozy.

Once every few months, I brave I-405 and wander up to Woodinville to check in on our Block Wines with Morgan Lee. Oftentimes during these visits, Morgan also tastes me through wines from his two wineries: Covington Cellars and Two Vintners.

During my most recent visit, one of the wines he poured was the 2011 Covington Syrah. I took one sniff, then I jotted the following in my notebook – wonderful funky nose! fecund, naughty. bacon fat. brackish sea funk. what the hell?!? – then I looked up at Morgan and repeated the last phrase in my notebook.

And then Morgan told me where the Syrah came from, and then I began negotiating to purchase the entire parcel.

2011 Covington Cellars Syrah

So, this wine is 50% Stoney Vine Vineyard in the rocks (RocksFunk). And 25% Boushey Vineyard (YakFunk). (The remainder is Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills). It’s the last vintage of Syrah that Morgan bottled under the Covington label. Subsequently, Two Vintners became the home for all the Syrah.

And really, this wine is kind of a ghost. Production was small to begin with (95 cases), and Covington sold through a chunk of that production to their wine club and mailing list. But I don’t see the wine on wine-searcher, and I don’t even see it having a record on CellarTracker. Which means serious ghost territory.

The wine was released at $45, which is fair price, considering the vineyard sourcing and winemaking involved. But at this point, Covington is going through a major re-branding, label re-design, and tasting room re-design, and I suspect they’re eager to see older-vintage juice like this disappear. And we indeed made it disappear, purchasing the entire remaining parcel. Hence the outstanding price today. And it’s always such an irony in the wine world that wines tend to get discounted just as they’re entering peak drinking. A happy irony for us, I suppose.

Our list members know better than most Morgan Lee’s ability to harness the funk. His recent 95pt review from Wine Spectator for his Stoney Vine Vineyard Syrah only helped to cement that fact. What’s extra thrilling about this bottling is getting to see these funky Syrah sites with a few years of bottle age. I mentioned some of the outrageous aromatics above – bacon, brackish seaweed, olive, marionberry – but I didn’t touch on the texture, and that’s a place where bottle age really helps. In a cool vintage like 2011, extra bottle age helps soften up what was likely pretty rippin’ acid in this wine’s youth. Right now that soft acidity is the perfect foil to a mouthful of plush (14.5% listed alc) fruit. Overall, this beauty possesses loads of energy and vitality, and a spot-on balance of fruit and savory elements. It’s a level of quality and complexity rarely seen at a $20 tag, and it’s a perfect end-note to our anniversary week.

Please limit order requests to 12 bottles, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wine is in the warehouse and ready for immediate pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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