Full Pull A Soft Spot Only Gets You So Far

Hello friends. The first Gramercy offer of the year is always a chance for me to reflect on one of our most positive long-term relationships here at Full Pull. Back in October 2009, the year of FP’s launch, I opened our first-ever Gramercy offer with this: Greg Harrington is the kind of guy that invites a stranger to dinner. And I don’t mean out to dinner. I mean to a dinner in his home.

During my first research trip for Full Pull, back in summer 2009 before we had even launched, back when I was a blogger with a glimmer in my eye, Greg treated me like a professional before I had earned the right to be treated that way. (He also cooked a lovely pork tenderloin.)

I’ll always have a soft spot for Gramercy because of that initial interaction, but a soft spot only gets you so far. The main reason we continue to work with Gramercy is not just because Greg and Pam Harrington and Brandon Moss are wonderful to work with, but mostly because they make ridiculously compelling wines, year in and year out.

Hard to believe we’re entering our ninth year of writing about Gramercy. The winery’s star has really risen since those early days, based on a clear house style (low-alc, high-acid, terroir-expressive) and a record of consistent excellence. Today we’re going to focus on one of Gramercy’s calling cards (their Walla Walla Valley Syrah) and one of their underrated gems (Columbia Valley Cabernet).

2014 Gramercy Cellars Syrah The Deuce

I’m going to quote Greg’s notes extensively on this one, since it speaks to the big change in the Deuce this year: the inclusion of Gramercy’s newly-purchased estate vineyard, Forgotten Hills. List members who remember the old Waters Syrahs from Forgotten Hills in 2007 and 2009 know how I feel about this site. It is one of the best vineyards in the state for growing savory Syrah as far as I’m concerned.

Greg’s notes: [TEXT WITHHELD]

I completely agree with the red fruit notes, and this also has loads of briny olives and smoky meats and peat moss. A textural marvel at 13.3% listed alc, this hums across the palate, full of verve and energy. This is propulsive Washington Syrah.

Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. 93pts.” [Sullivan context note: of all the 2014 Syrahs reviewed by Sean, only four wines have earned stronger reviews: all 94s. Just a reminder that a 93pt review from Sean is a strong review indeed!]

2013 Gramercy Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

Often lost amidst the winery’s core focus on Rhone varieties is the fact that they make a thrilling Cabernet Sauvignon as well. This 2013 is a brilliant example of pan-Washington Cab.

Excerpts from Greg’s notes: [TEXT WITHHELD]

I was just crazy about this vintage, wild for its earthiness, which I noted as some combination of beetroot and porcini and graphite, all over a core of blackcurrant and black plum fruit. The finish is all lovely tannin leafiness – tobacco and green tea – and a thread of mint keeps things fresh throughout. While it’s approachable by Gramercy standards, this is still a 10- to 20-year wine.

Wine Advocate (Jeb Dunnuck): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 94pts.”

First come first served up to 24 bottles total (mix and match as you like), and the wines should arrive in a week or two, at which point they will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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