Full Pull Pinot Bargain

Hello friends. We got to know the wines of Matello last year through their outrageous Cote Rotie ringer from Oregon, Deux Vert. That wine, however, is a real outlier in the lineup, which is focused mostly on Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay). So today, we have our first Matello Pinot Noir offer, and it’s a doozy: their Tête de Cuvée, the finest Pinot in the Matello lineup, six years past vintage and just entering a beautiful drinking window. Release price on this wine was $45, but we’re able to do a lot better today:

2011 Matello Pinot Noir Souris

Vinous (Josh Raynolds): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD]. 91pts.”

That’s a fine review from a tough grader, and underscores what a fine deal this is. Marcus, and his partner Gaironn Poole, are discontinuing the Souris label after the 2012 vintage, so at this point, they’re willing to offer excellent pricing to move significant volume. Perfect for the Full Pull model.

As a reminder, Matello was launched by Marcus Goodfellow in 2002 after he spent time working with the folks at Evasham Wood and Westrey. For the first few years, he made wine tucked away in a little corner at Westrey (good place for wine-knowledge osmosis!) before moving to a co-op facility and then his own facility in 2011.

Just in time to make this particular Pinot, which is a 58/42 blend of Whistling Ridge Vineyard in Ribbon Ridge and Durant in Dundee Hills, two excellent sites. It clocks in at 12.9% alc, very true to the cool 2011 vintage and approaching Burgundy Brix levels. One truism I’ve found about cooler vintages in Oregon is that they need time to unfurl. But my, the glories that await those of us with patience.

This one begins with a nose of blackberry and dried cherry, woodsmoke, and some lovely emerging tertiary notes of earth and leather spice. With just a little time and air, a wonderful mineral core emerged here, bestowing a terrific crushed-rock character to this Pinot. With plenty of nervy acidity and no shortage of robust tannin, this could easily be confused structurally for an old-world wine, and all that structure is perfect scaffolding for a dense core of rocks and fruit. There’s nothing better than hitting a wine right as its peak drinking window is beginning to open, and I think that’s just where we are with this wine, with a peak likely to stretch from 2017-2022 or so. It’s a taut, thrilling Pinot, and you can bet I’ll have a few bottles set aside for when the salmon start running in a few short months.

First come first served up to 24 bottles, and the wine should arrive in a week or two, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

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