Full Pull Peak Cabernet Season

January 9, 2018

Hello friends. While the solstice hit just under a month ago—and apparently the world is gaining light every single day—we know all too well that there are many more months of cold in front of us. But rather than focusing on the unabating gloom of winter, I (an eternal optimist) like to celebrate this time as peak Cabernet season. December is all about sparkling. And once March hits, no matter the temperature, I’m dreaming about rosé. January and February are the optimal months for indulging in dark-fruited, full-bodied Washington Cabernet.

What better way to celebrate peak Cabernet season than a vintage lauded as one of the best for the grape in recent memory? 2014 proved hot, the hottest vintage on record until the following year, and heat-loving Cabernet happily soaked up the sun. The wines produced have proved robust and structured, with wonderful varietal typicity. Today, we have two prime examples for you.

2014 Novelty Hill Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

The Columbia Valley Cabernet from Novelty Hill has long been a staple in the Washington wine scene with a reputation for quality and consistency. It has been rated 90pts or above for twelve vintages in a row. It has been named an editors’ choice or cellar selection countless times, and earned a place on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list more than once. At the core of what makes this wine so good is experienced winemaking and a top notch estate vineyard.

Mike Januik has been working in the Columbia Valley since 1984, and spent 10 years at Chateau St Michelle reinventing their winemaking program before breaking off onto his own projects, Novelty Hill and Januik. Stillwater Creek, Novelty Hill’s Estate Vineyard, is widely regarded as one of the top sites in the state. Planted in 2000, the vineyard’s 235 acres sit on the Royal Slope of the Frenchman Hills. Even if you’ve never tried a wine from Novelty Hill, you have, without a doubt, had grapes from their vineyard. Stillwater Creek sells grapes to many well-loved Washington wineries, including Saviah, Baer, Corliss, Rotie—even our own list favorite 2009 Full Pull & Friends Cabernet Sauvignon has a little Stillwater juice in it.

Though it carries the more general label of Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek is a predominant source for this blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Malbec. The rest is sourced from top vineyard connections that Mike Januik has made over the last three decades. Clocking in at 14.4% alcohol, this juice spent 21 months in a mixture of French and American oak, both new and previously used barrels.

Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 91pts.”

2014 Woodward Canyon Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon

Woodward Canyon was there in the beginning. As the second winery in the Walla Walla Valley, the winery served as an instrumental player in obtaining AVA status for the region. So, when Woodward Canyon labels something as “Old Vines,” you know it’s old. This bottle is sourced completely from vines planted in the early 1970s—the Cabernet from blocks of Champoux (Horse Heaven Hills) and Sagemoor (Columbia Valley). The 4% of Petit Verdot comes from Woodward Canyon’s Estate Vineyard (Walla Walla).

Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 94pts. Cellar Selection.”

To give some context, out of the 269 Cabernets Sean reviewed in 2017, this is the very strongest review he gave (tied with 2014 Quilceda Creek Cab and 2013 Long Shadows Feather). But it goes even further—Sean has reviewed a total of 836 Cabs for Wine Enthusiast in his entire tenure. Only three have received stronger reviews than this bottling, all 95pts: 2012 Quilceda Creek Cab, 2012 Gramercy Reserve Cab, 2012 Betz Pere de Famille. It is clear that by Sean’s standards—standards that we regard pretty highly around Full Pull—the 2014 Woodward Canyon Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon is just about as good as it gets when it comes to Washington Cabernet.

Full Pull The Return Of The (Little) King

January 8, 2018

Hello friends, and happy new year! I hope you all had a restful, rejuvenating, and wine-soaked holiday season. As usual, I enjoyed the time off, but began to feel the Full Pull itch sometime around January 2 and am happy to be back here at the start of another year.

One of the most popular wines we offered in 2017 was Jean Royer’s 2015 Le Petit Roy (the little king). When I learned that the new vintage landed in Seattle in late December, and that it is a fairly limited parcel, I knew right away what our first offer of the year would be:

2016 Jean Royer Le Petit Roy

Our TPU price is up a dollar due to a combination of factors, but is still the lowest I can find nationwide by some measure. Looks like most outlets are still selling the ’15 for $15; the only place the ’16 shows up yet is in the UK.

And the fact remains: this is still a crazy price for a wine that very much drinks like baby Chateauneuf-du-Pape. That term is not one I toss around lightly. Nor often. Looking back at the archives, I believe I’ve only used it for three wines: La Chaussynette from Mas de Boislauzon, Renjarde’s Massif d’Uchaux, and the Petit Roy. That these are three of our most popular import wines of all time should probably tell you something.

Some Baby CdPs take a lot of explaining. Not so much this one, since Jean Royer is himself a Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer. Since 1985, he has been crafting well-regarded, well-reviewed CdPs in more of an old-school style than the newer, blowsier CdPs currently in vogue. There’s also a (thin) Washington connection here. Royer’s pal, fellow rugby enthusiast, and jet-setting oenologist Phillipe Cambié is also the consulting oenologist working with Ste Michelle on the Tenet Wines (we’ve offered their outstanding Pundit Syrah a couple times).

Petit Roy is a blend of declassified barrels of Royer Chateauneuf, along with concrete tank-aged parcels from his vines just outside the boundary of the AOC. It’s about as close to CdP as you can get without being allowed to put it on the label. In any regular vintage, that’s a recipe for good value. In vintages like 2015 and 2016, it’s off the charts.

And yeah, I know there was ridiculous hype about the 2015 Rhones, but it may actually end up eclipsed by the enthusiasm for the ‘16s. Wine Spectator, for example, rated the 2015 vintage in the southern Rhone at 97pts and currently has the 2016 listed at 96-99pts. Regardless of which vintage is superior, it’s now clear that this is about as strong a pair of back-to-back vintages as the Rhone has ever seen.

The 2016 Petit Roy is a blend of Grenache (mostly), Syrah (some), and Mourvedre and Alicante (dollops), and it clocks in at 14.5% listed alc. It begins with a nose that hits the Grenache trinity immediately: brambly berry fruit (raspberry especially), wet-stone minerality, and loads of dusty earthy garrigue. You can almost feel the Mistral blowing through. But it’s the palate where the baby-CdP moniker really sticks. The way this fans out and saturates the mouth; the heft and intensity without excess weight; the complex mix of fruit and earth tones. Just like last year, I’d love to slip this into a blind flight of $30-$50 Chateauneuf-du-Pape and watch it dazzle. It’s a wine that works with all the cold-weather roasts and braises of our remaining winter as well as it does with a cheeseburger on the grill when the weather warms again. It remains a killer mid-week house red, and I’m thrilled that our list has dibs on this parcel.

Full Pull Instant Gratification 8 of 8: Ring Out (Final Offer of 2017)

December 25, 2017

Hello friends. This is our final offer of 2017. We’ll plan to stay out of your inboxes until about January 7, when you can expect our first offer of 2018. In the meantime, after our open hours today (Saturday; 11am-7pm) we are CLOSED for pickups for the next few weeks, and our first TPU pickup day in 2017 will be Thursday January 11.

Today’s offer will mostly focus on reflections from a busy 2017. At the end of the offer we’ll include reorder links for a handful of our in-house favorites; and at the beginning we’ll do what we’ve done every year since 2009: excerpt Tennyson’s In Memoriam.

Ring out, wild bells, to the wild sky,
The flying cloud, the frosty light;
The year is dying in the night;
Ring out, wild bells, and let him die.

Ring out the old, ring in the new,
Ring, happy bells, across the snow:
The year is going, let him go;
Ring out the false, ring in the true.

Ring out the grief that saps the mind,
For those that here we see no more,
Ring out the feud of rich and poor,
Ring in redress to all mankind.

I love quoting these particular stanzas, because they speak to the cleansing grace of the end of a year, the power of first remembering and then letting go.

One memory that stands out to me from 2017 was our team’s September trip with Morgan Lee to visit all the vineyards we work with for our in-house winery, Block Wines. This was the first year that we were able to bring nearly our entire team on that eastern Washington swing, and it led to all sorts of interesting conversations, several of them sober even.

And I remember Pat making the point – after seeing all these pristine, carefully-tended vineyards and tasting all these perfect grape berries ripening on the vine – that the raw materials we start with in the Pacific Northwest are truly beautiful, and that the role of the winemakers is to convey that beauty in the finished wines. Our job at Full Pull is to suss out the winemakers who are achieving the honest expression of this rigorous farming, and to shield our list members from all the rest.

I see our role as that of the curator/matchmaker: the curator side tasting broadly so that you don’t have to; the matchmaker side connecting the best winemakers in the northwest (and a few in the rest of the world) to a group of people who care about the beverages they consume.

And that’s what always strikes me about our list members. In a world where cool detachment seems to be in the ascendancy, our list members are a countercultural group who choose to *care* about something. In this case, it’s wine, but it’s the caring itself that’s telling of the kind of folks who populate our list. Our Full Pull team feels very fortunate to have such a thoughtful, engaged, kind group of people as our list members. Thank you all for such robust support in 2017.

Now then, let’s do this quixotic thing we do – attempting to use language to convey sensory experience – one more time, and then let’s close the door on 2017.

2015 Block Wines Chenin Blanc Gnarl Block Rothrock Vineyard 

Last call on this vintage of Chenin. At the end of 2017, we’re placing the remainder in the library, where it will be off limits for at least another two or three years. International Wine Report (Owen Bargreen): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 91pts.”

2016 Block Wines Semillion Tauro Block Boushey Vineyard 

Our first Semillon fermented and aged in concrete egg, this has been a hit since its September release: a frequent buy at the tasting table and a frequent reorder target too. International Wine Report (Owen Bargreen): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 90pts.”

2007 Full Pull & Friends Chardonnay (FPF-22)

Despite going really long on this decade-old Chardonnay, it still may not last out the year; we’re down to just 18% of our original stock remaining, thanks in part to this recent review. Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 92pts.”

2015 Temporal Vintners Tempranillo

We released this less than a month ago, and it has already become a frequent reorder target, just like the 2014. You may remember, though: production here is half that of the ’14, so this is moving fast. All Tempranillo from Dineen Vineyard, with some Ribera clone and some Toro clone material, this easily outperforms its $15 tag. It is not the soft side of Tempranillo; it’s burly, muscular, powerful Tempranillo; Tempranillo with Cabernet structure—full of polished, fine-grained tannins that offer a texture to perfectly complement all sorts of meals throughout the winter. Tempranillo is the wine for braising weather: for days indoors slow-cooking a tough piece of protein into something supple and delicious. Pot roasts and short ribs and oxtails. Big messes of root veggies and potatoes.

2015 Puget Purveyors Cabernet Sauvignon

Here is our attempt to make the finest possible Washington Cabernet that can hit the magic $20 price point: Wine Advocate (Jeb Dunnuck): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 91pts.”

2009 Full Pull & Friends CVBDX (FPF-21)

Another one where we went long but have seen brisk sales since this wine’s original offer in May. We have 39% of the original stock remaining, and this was the only FP&F red we offered in 2017. International Wine Report (Owen Bargreen): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 92pts.”

2014 Full Pull & Friends Merlot Klipsun Vineyard (FPF-19)

2017 is the first year since starting Full Pull (in 2009) that I’ve felt the stirrings of a Merlot comeback. It’s way overdue. We’re getting close to last-call time on our FP&F Merlot, with just 19% remaining of the original stock. International Wine Report (Owen Bargreen): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 92pts.”

2015 Block Wines Syrah Ankleroller Block Stoney Vine Vineyard
Oh the Ankleroller, beloved by FP team members and list members and reviewers alike. And we only made a single puncheon’s worth. Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan):[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 93pts.”

Wine Advocate (Jeb Dunnuck): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 93pts”

International Wine Report (Owen Bargreen): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 93pts”

Full Pull Instant Gratification 4 of 8: Library Cali Price Drop

December 12, 2017

Hello friends. Today we have the fourth of eight Instant Gratification offers to close out 2017. This series features wines that are already in the warehouse and ready for immediate pickup. No need to wait until mid-January; these wines are here, available for pickup during our remaining three pickup days, and looking for happy homes for the holidays.

IG4 features a pair of maturing Cali Rhone blends from singer-songwriter Boz Scaggs’ vineyard, which is I believe the only California winery represented by Kermit Lynch. The wine normally retails at $45, and the best price I see for any vintage online is 39.99. Today we have prices well below that, for one wine at eight years past vintage, another at eleven. To secure that pricing, we had to purchase the entire remaining stock in Washington, but it was still a borderline parcel size-wise for an offer.

The wine comes entirely from a single estate vineyard at the northern edge of Mt. Veeder within the Mayacamas Ridge, at high altitudes (1100-1400 feet). The site was originally planted in 1998 and has been certified organic since 2005. It seems like the Scaggs wines fly mostly under the radar, but I did find a Wine Enthusiast review of one vintage of Montage, the 2008, where the wine earned 95pts and text calling the wine “among the best [GSM blends] in California.”

Accessing well-aged parcels of Cali wine is rare to begin with. Rarer still to see them at 45-55% off release price. Seems just right for the holidays.

2009 Scaggs Vineyard Montage

The blend for the ’09 is 48% Mourvedre, 38% Grenache, 9% Syrah, and 5% Counoise. It clocks in at 14.3% listed alc and begins with a nose of dried cherry and fig fruit paired to maturing notes of leather spice and dusty earth. The palate features a mix of supple primary fruit paired to lovely earthy tertiary notes (earth, mushroom, exotic spice). The structure is still alive and kicking here, especially in the form of sneaky fine-grained finishing tannins. This strikes me as a wine in the early stages of peak drinking.

2006 Scaggs Vineyard Montage

And now for a wine right in the middle of peak drinking. The ’06 sees the same proportions of Mourvedre (48%) and Grenache (38%) as the ’09, but it contains no Counoise and so has double the Syrah (18%). Listed alc is 14.2%. It’s more clearly mature on the nose, with earth and roasted shitake notes paired to deep black fruit and a salty soy sauce reduction. There’s a real umami kick on the palate too: this is briny and delicious, those savory notes a perfect foil to a core of rich fruit. Tannins are close to fully integrated here, and the acidity is still fresh and lovely.

Full Pull Instant Gratification 3 of 8: Top 100 #s 2 and 13

December 10, 2017

Hello friends. As you can see from the schedule above, we have just three more pickup days remaining in 2017. The past few days, we’ve been instituting a new series of offers to close out the year: our Instant Gratification series. Today makes the 3rd in the series, and possibly one of the most exciting (and probably frenzy inducing). Like the previous offers, both wines below are already in the warehouse and ready for immediate pickup. No need to wait until mid-January; these wines are here, delicious, and looking for happy homes for the holidays.

Whether you believe in it or not, karma can feel very real in the wine business. Obviously, bad actions can bring about bad results, but we’re not here to focus on the negative today. We’re here to focus on the positive side of Karma. Karma is really just cause and effect—what you do in the world impacts what happens do you. For example, it’s never more clear that we are doing good work here at Full Pull than when we receive access to highly-desirable, completely-sold-out, top-scoring wines.

2014 K Vintners Syrah Powerline Estate Vineyard

We originally offered this wine well before it landed the #2 spot on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines of 2017. Typically, this type of accolade means that every bottle still available gets gobbled up immediately. Full Pull (or at least a few of our list members) must have done something karmically good over the past eight years, because Charles Smith and his team were kind enough to offer us a second parcel of the highly lauded wine.

Wine Spectator Top 100 (#2): “The first Syrah release from a new vineyard, Powerline is a bold statement from winemaker Charles Smith. But what do you expect from the bad boy of Washington wine? Located just south of Walla Walla at an elevation of 1,200 feet, the 30-acre vineyard was planted by Smith in 2012. The site is an ancient riverbed containing well-drained soils, thick with cobblestones, sand and gravel, that produce about 2.5 tons per acre. Smith fermented the 2014 with native yeast and soaked it on the skins for 41 days before aging the wine 27 months in French puncheons, 53 percent of them new oak.”

Wine Spectator (Tim Fish): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 95pts”

Wine Advocate (Jeb Dunnuck): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 94-97pts.”

Notes on logistics:
1. I suspect we’ll have to under-allocate here, given the parcel sizes, so a quick reminder of our allocation technique: Our allocations favor breadth over depth, so that everyone gets one bottle before anyone gets two. And our formula for prioritizing allocations includes overall orders, frequency of orders, recency of orders, and list tenure, among other factors.

2. We’ll run our initial allocation at noon Pacific time tomorrow (Tuesday).

3. If you’ve already placed a reorder request that’s in Pending, no need to order again; we’ll consider your request along with everyone else’s.

2014 Sixto Chardonnay Uncovered 

Originally offered April 7. Excerpts from the original: Wine Spectator (Tim Fish): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 94pts.” *Note: When we offered this in July, we mistakenly quoted the score in Spectator as 93pts when it was actually 94pts. Luckily the winery saw fit to forgive us and allocate us another parcel of this wine!*

The Sixto label is intended to explore old-vine Washington Chardonnay, named after the musician Sixto Rodriguez, subject of the outstanding Oscar-winning documentary Searching For Sugar Man. Uncovered is Sixto’s gateway drug, a blend of each of the three vineyards (which go for $55 in single-vineyard form) involved in the project – Frenchman Hills (33%), Moxee (28%), and Roza Hills (27%) – along with a dash (12%) of Evergreen.

Full Pull Instant Gratification 1 of 8: Serious Crush

December 9, 2017

Hello friends. As you can see from the schedule above, we have just five pickup days (including today) remaining in 2017. This year, we’re instituting a new series of offers to close out the year: our Instant Gratification series. For the remainder of December, all our offers will be for wines that are already in the warehouse and ready for immediate pickup. No need to wait until mid-January; these wines are here, delicious, and looking for happy homes for the holidays.

Our first in the series comes from a familiar winery, but it’s an unfamiliar wine. We’ve offered nine red wines from Result of a Crush, and all nine have been Syrah-based. Today we have something different, and we liked the wine enough that we cornered the market on the entire western Washington parcel.

2015 Result of a Crush Claret

As you can see, this wine is already sold out at the winery. Apparently it was a massive hit in the tasting room. If there’s anyplace outside of Full Pull to source this beauty, I don’t know about it.

It’s a four-variety Bordeaux blend: 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Unlike many of the previous RoaC wines, which have combined Reynvaan estate fruit with purchased juice, this 2015 Claret is 100% Reynvaan estate; a mix of their rocks and foothills sites.

What’s exciting is that these are the same vineyards that go into the high-end Reynvaan BDX program, and those wines *start* at $75. To access that kind of juice at a twenty dollar tag is a terrific opportunity, and helps explain why I was comfortable going long.

The nose displays a fascinating interplay between the Bordeaux varieties, which want to be more fruit driven, and the terroir, which seems to want to express a savory/briny character regardless of grape. For every black plum there’s a black olive; for every red cherry a red-blooded sense of sanguine minerality. It’s a complex, ever-evolving nose. The palate (13.5% listed alc) is bright, juicy, lively, with an insistent sense of brine and minerality. There’s lovely resinous freshness here – like fruit muddled with douglas fir boughs – that I found deeply compelling. Between the bright acidity and the polished tannin, this drinks very much like a wine that will evolve in fascinating directions for years. Right now, it would make an awfully attractive pairing to a rosemary-studded standing rib roast.

International Wine Report (Owen Bargreen): “[REVIEW TEXT WITHHELD] 92pts.”

Full Pull Hedonistic Holiday Deal

December 8, 2017

Hello friends. This time of year is crazy in the wine trade. Wineries trying to make hay while the sun shines know that the sun shines particularly bright during the holiday season, and then is basically extinguished for much of the beginning of the year. December is a time for excess. January is a time for paying off credit card bills. So the deals fly fast and thick this time of year, and our once rigidly set offer calendar becomes fluid. Offers scheduled for December get bumped to January; wines that weren’t on our radar until recently jump the line; and December pricing reigns supreme.

Today’s offer is a great example. One of our regularly featured winemakers, Chris Gorman, offered December pricing on an interesting pair of wines, a compelling enough holiday deal to move into a coveted December slot (also, see the bottom of today’s email for a reoffer of a terrific Chardonnay)

2015 Gorman Winery Zacharys Ladder

Normal pricing: $30. The 2014 vintage of this was just named on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2017. With that press, it’s possible the 2015 may be gobbled up before we know it, which made this offer ever more pressing.

Always on the lower-priced end of the reds in Gorman’s lineup, Zachary’s Ladder is a $30 bottle that gets all the procedure and trappings of its $60 siblings. Gorman’s calling card has always been bold, lush wines—unapologetic pleasure bringers. He has long known how to turn grapes into something of a hedonistic fever dream. Sourced solely from Red Mountain (Quintessence, Kiona, Shaw), Zachary is made up of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. Aged for 20 months in two-thirds new French oak, the end result clocks in at 14.8% alcohol. This bottle leads with a nose driven by Cab, layered with cassis, blackberries, fresh fig, and tobacco. The palate continues with plenty of juicy, plush fruit, but is quickly balanced with mouthwatering acidity and ever-present tannins. True to style, this wine is generous, texturally lavish and supple, but the true star is the finish, lengthy and full of anise, dusty earth, and leather. In 2002, this wine was the first Gorman ever made, and now, 13 vintages later, it still proves a righteous example of the luxurious style and ample technique this winery has been built on.

2012 Gorman Winery Evil Twin

Normal pricing: $65. Evil Twin has long been the best way for Chris Gorman to show off one of his signature blends— Red Mountain Syrah and Cabernet. Red Mountain’s power matched with Syrah and Cabernet characteristics make for a sumptuous bottling, fitting right in with Gorman’s house style. Even better yet? The spectacular 2012 vintage. Lauded as one of the best of the century in Washington, when Chris told us he had some 2012 Evil Twin stashed away, and was willing to give our list members a December deal, we pounced.

This bottles does not disappoint—proving as resplendent as ever. Made from 75% Syrah and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine gets barrel fermented and aged in 100% new French oak for 23 months before bottling. As the nose opens, you can pick out exactly which quality comes from which grape. The leafy green and herbs layered with anise, Cabernet. A touch of umami and smoked meat, Syrah. Red and black fruit, both. The palate is grand and unapologetic, showing off plenty of dense fruit and toasty barrels. Texturally deluxe, this is a wine with significant gravity that still manages to shine brightly. Two years in barrel and three in bottle have lead Evil Twin to a sweet spot—it is entering its prime drinking window right now, but will stay delicious for some time.

2016 Ashan Cellars Chardonnay Barrel Fermented

Normal price: $25. New review in the December Enthusiast: Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan): “($25); Aromas of candy corn, spice and almond butter are followed by full-bodied, tropical-fruit flavors that show a pleasing sense of richness and intensity. It’s a delicious example of the variety, with a lingering finish. Editor’s Choice. 91pts.”

Originally offered July 26th, 2017. Excerpts from the original: Chris launched his Chardonnay-only Ashan Cellars label with the 2012 vintage. The philosophy of this project: to use historical and well-managed vineyards, press very lightly, allow native yeast fermentation, wild ML, extensive battonage, long ferments and extended barrel and bottle aging. Along with his excellent single-vineyard Chardonnays, Chris releases one that is a blend of several of his vineyards. While the single vineyard bottlings are $50, the blend comes out a year earlier and is usually sold for $25 (we have slightly lower pricing today).

This vintage contains fruit from Boushey, Celilo, and Conner Lee. It is barrel fermented (duh) in 100% new French oak, aged on the lees for seven months in once-used French oak, and clocks in at 14.5% listed alc. 2016 was not nearly as warm as the previous two vintages, and these are all three cool to coolish vineyards. The result is a balanced beauty, layered and weighty like the best Napa Chards, but without overt buttered popcorn or vanilla ice cream. Instead, we get an alluring mix of lemon curd, mineral, crème fraiche; a palate full of luxurious fruit without obvious oak; and intensity and length to spare for a twenty-dollar tag.