Hello friends. This is the bleeding edge of northwest winemaking.
The emergence of Barnaby Tuttle’s Teutonic Wine Company has been one of the exciting stories of the past few years, and today we have his 2011 whites, just delivered from Portland and bound to disappear in a blink.
I have been obsessively asking about these wines (they’re that thrilling), and so I tasted them the day after they landed in Seattle last week. The quality is outstanding across the board. The only issue is quantity. Barnaby could easily sell through these small-production wines entirely through the Portland market, where they have achieved cult-like status. Instead, to help spread the word a bit, he has sent small stashes of each up to Seattle, but these are one-time-only stashes, and they’re tiny. They’ll be sold out within a couple weeks (at best), and after that, your only option will be to hop on an Amtrak Cascades down to Portland to source these.
Focus, clear vision, and an immediately-noticeable house style: those are the ingredients that have lit the fuse for the Teutonic fireworks. “All cool climate, all the time,” screams the Teutonic website, leaving little doubt as to the style you can expect.
Barnaby then expounds on the house style, which I’m borrowing here because it’s rare to see a winemaker explain his/her vision in such crystalline terms:
“Our house style is represented by wines that are lower in alcohol (typically 9% to 12% alcohol by volume), and higher in acidity. Wines with this profile are more elegant, have greater nuance and pair well with many foods… We believe that wine should always complement food. Fresh acidity, moderate alcohol content and focused mineral notes in our wines make them pair well with seafood, pork, lamb, wild game or dishes with good amounts of fat and salt. All our wines are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeast cultures in neutral French oak barrels. Using the natural yeast from the individual vineyard sites allows the flavors of the terroir to express itself in the wine. Because we only use neutral oak barrels to ferment and age our wines, their unique characteristics will never be masked behind the flavor of oak. When you pair our wines with wild game, mushrooms, truffles and other earthy flavors, you discover how beautifully they complement each other.”
Barnaby talks the talk, and leaves his wines to walk the walk. Sourced mostly from north-facing (cooler) vineyards, these all come from 2011, a cooler vintage. The results: the most alcoholic wine of the threesome clocks in at 10.5%. While the wines are undeniably geeky (two of today’s three varietals are exceptionally rare in the northwest), and so easily tickle the intellect, they can also be enjoyed at a surface level, because they are simply thrilling wines. Tensile, nervous, and wildly refreshing, these are wines to enjoy all summer long and into the autumn:
2011 Teutonic Wine Company Silvaner David Hill Vineyard
Calling American Silvaner rare is something of an understatement. There is one producer growing it in the Central Coast of California, and CellarTracker shows one vintage produced in Kansas, noted hotbed of American winemaking. Otherwise it’s all Teutonic, all the time.
And so you might be thinking, as I did, that Barnaby asked for these grapes to be planted, and they’re like four years old. Unh-unh. Try 46-year-old vines. Amazing!
David Hill Vineyard has a long history. Photos dated 1904 show vines thriving on the property. They were ripped out during Prohibition, but vines were replanted by Charles Coury in 1965, one of the early pioneers to come north from California in search of suitable vineyard land. You can see the vineyard’s location in what is now a chilly forgotten corner of the Willamette Valley, well to the north of the Dundee Hills, and basically due west of Portland.
In Germany, where the bulk of the world’s Silvaner is produced (Alsace in France and Alto Adige in Italy do a decent amount too), it is frequently known as an earthier/more minerally alternative to Riesling, and that’s certainly the case here. A nose of cut rock and fresh peppermint gives way to a palate that is all steel and mineral and white fruit. The lemony acidity is wonderful, and this finishes with a thirst-quenching, chalky texture.
2011 Teutonic Wine Company Chasselas David Hill Vineyard
If Silvaner raised our geek flag to half-mast, this Chasselas should finish the job.
How many of you have heard of Chasselas? Be honest!
A big reason for its obscurity is that its center of gravity is in Switzerland. And the Swiss drink up just about the entire production themselves, so finding a Swiss Chasselas here in the United States can be quite the feat. This too was in the initial plantings of David Hill Vineyard in the late ‘60s. In the Alps of Switzerland and France, Chasselas is known as the perfect foil to fondues and raclettes, and if reading that makes you feel a bit faint, you can join me in the swoon room.
My first short tasting note: “crazy crazy acid.” Indeed. Expanding from there, the wine begins with aromatics of fresh citrus, chalk, and eucalyptus, and goes on to taste very much like alcoholic Fresca. Not knowing what to expect from an American Chasselas, I was thrilled with the flavor profile, which hit much of the citrus family: grapefruit, lemon, lime, to name a few. It would be oh so easy to down a bottle of this on a warm summer day, and the alcohol is 9.8%, so we can do it guilt-free.
2011 Teutonic Wine Company Pinot Gris “Nov. Harvest” Maresh Vnyd
The previous two wines drink dry. This I would call off-dry, with noticeable – but far from prominent – sugar. These grapes was allowed to hang into November (hence the name). I’m guessing that, had Barnaby fermented this to dryness, its finished alcohol would have been 12%-13%. But he didn’t, cutting it off with some sugar remaining and a finished alcohol of 9.8%.
The vineyard source here is Maresh, another old site in the Willamette, this one planted in 1970 in the heart of the red jory volcanic soils of the Dundee Hills (location here). Apples (some fresh, some bruised) mix with earth in the aromatics, and the palate reminded me of nothing more than an apple crumble, with notes of (duh) apples, wheat germ, and honey. There is loads of appley malic acid here, and it is a lovely foil for the honey/caramel sugar flavors.
I wish there was more of this, especially after expressing such enthusiasm, but please limit order requests to 6 bottles *total* (mix and match as you see fit), and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wines should arrive in about a week, at which point they will be available for pickup or shipping.