Hello friends. Offering Leonetti’s new releases each year is, for me, a little like Punxsutawney Phil not seeing his shadow: an indication that spring is on the ascendancy.
And just as denizens of Punxsutawney, PA see Groundhog Day as one of the most exciting of the year, that too is how I view Leonetti Offering Day. After all, it isn’t every day that you get to write about the grand dame of the Walla Walla Valley, the founding winery in that AVA that quickly became one of Washington’s few cult producers.
Founded in 1978 by Gary Figgins, Leonetti rapidly established a reputation as one of Washington’s top Cabernet and Merlot producers, helped along by their 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon being recognized as best in nation in a Wine & Spirits Magazine blind tasting. Brisk mailing list sales followed, and soon thereafter, the mailing list closed (and the waiting list opened!).
Now, the second generation helms the winery, in the form of Chris Figgins. After meeting Chris, it comes as no surprise that the picture on the Leonetti welcome site is of Chris in the vineyard. He has subtly shifted the emphasis of the winery towards its estate vineyards in the past few years, and the results have been outstanding.
Now, a quick logistics reminder for those of you who were not on the list last year: This is a pre-release offering, where I’m sending the offering before I know my allocations. Using this model allows me to advocate on behalf of our list for allocations that most accurately reflect our overall demand. The flip side is: some pre-release offerings turn out to be mirage wines: wines where I never end up receiving an allocation and then need to send sold-out allocation notices.
As far as timing goes, we should be able to send out allocation notices within the next three or four weeks (orders will remain Pending until then), and the wines should arrive at the warehouse in mid-March.
While I have not yet tasted these new releases (timing and scarcity dictate a quicker turnaround), I have been lucky enough to taste vintages of Leonetti wines from the ‘80s and ‘90s, as well as plenty of more recent vintages. These are wines that can age in profoundly beautiful directions (if you can resist their youthful charms). The transition to Leonetti’s second generation is just about complete, and the future for this Mt. Rushmore-level Washington winery looks bright indeed.
2010 Leonetti Merlot
Production was slashed on this Merlot, down 40% from the 2009 vintage, so this will be a rarer jewel than in the past few vintages.
First produced in 1981, this 100% Merlot now comes from Leonetti’s estate Mill Creek Upland and Loess Vineyards, rounded out with fruit from the old block at Seven Hills. No reviews yet for the 2010, but the 2008 received 96pts Paul Gregutt (Wine Enthusiast), and the 2009 94pts Gregutt.
Winery tasting notes: “Dense, dark, and lush but with amazing focus and levity. Loaded with dark blue and black fruits. Gorgeous high tone aromatics are reminiscent of brambleberry reduction compote. Long and plush on the palate, but with a fine grained tannin structure and brilliant acidity from the epic 2010 vintage. This may be the finest Merlot in Leonetti’s history. I am completely enamored by the complexity of this wine. The cool vintage gives such restraint to the opulence of the fruit. This wine will drink well upon release but age for many years to come.”
2009 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon
First produced in Leonetti’s inaugural vintage – 1978 – this 2009 marks the 32nd consecutive vintage of Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon. This too comes from Mill Creek Upland Estate Vineyard, Loess Estate Vineyard, and Seven Hills Vineyard old block. The blend includes 7% Merlot, 4% Carmenere, and 1% Malbec. No reviews yet for the 2009, but the 2008 received 98pts Gregutt (and the #3 position on Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 of 2011) and 94pts Stephen Tanzer (Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar).
Winery tasting notes: “Dark as night. An absolutely explosive nose of ripe red and black fruits, licorice, coffee, cassis and pine boughs. Palate is gorgeously plush, rich, dense, long, and loaded with fruit. Tannin is smooth and ripe, finish lasts forever. A very flamboyant yet balanced Cabernet.”
2009 Leonetti Sangiovese
Introduced in 1995, with average vine age of about 15 years, this is lower-production, with levels usually at about one quarter of the Cabernet. Sourced from Mill Creek Upland (one of Leonetti’s estate sites) along with Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge, this has 8% Syrah blended in and is aged for 22 months in mostly neutral French oak. No reviews yet for the 2009, but the 2008 received 92pts Tanzer.
Winery tasting notes: “Exceptional deep ruby color. Enticing nose of dried fruits, cranberries, vanilla, pencil shavings and graham cracker. On the palate it is smooth, long and balanced by fine tannin and lively acidity. Excellent purity of fruit. After 3 days open this one is singing!”
2009 Leonetti Reserve (Cabernet Blend)
While they had produced Reserve Cabernets before 2000, it was at the millennial turn that Leonetti dropped the varietal designation on their Reserve, freeing them to create a Bordeaux blend in whatever proportions would craft the finest wine possible. In 2009, they could easily go back to the Reserve Cabernet label if they wished; this is a full 92% Cabernet Sauvignon (the remainder Merlot). Vineyards are again Mill Creek Upland, Loess, and Seven Hills. No reviews yet for the 2009, but the 2008 received 97pts Jay Miller (Wine Advocate), 96pts Gregutt (also a spot on Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 Cellar Selections of 2011), and 94(+?)pts Tanzer.
Winery tasting notes: “Impenetrably dark magenta. A beautiful and precise nose of graham cracker, mixed high-tone florals, ripe fruit, and hints of honey. Palate is silky smooth, incredibly dense and plush, loaded with ripe fruit and butressed by fine grained tannin and a very long finish. Simply pleasurable to sit on the palate. Overall this wine is more youthfully restrained than the Cabernet with laser focus and purity. I think this wine will really blossom over the next five years and reward as much cellaring as its owner is willing to allow.”
Please limit order requests to 4 Merlot, 6 Cabernet, 2 Sangiovese, and 2 Reserve, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. I want to emphasize again that we have no guaranteed allocations on these wines but will certainly do our best to secure parcels that reflect the overall demand of our list. If all goes according to schedule, we should be able to send out allocation notices within the next three or four weeks (orders will remain Pending until then), and the wines should arrive at the warehouse in mid-March, at which point they will be available for pickup or shipping during the spring shipping window.