Full Pull Pink Renegade

Hello friends. There’s a golden rule for summer rosé consumption: if you want to be drinking the best local rosés in July and August, you better purchase them in March and April, stash them away in a dark closet or under the bed, and sit in wait for that glorious, all-too-short PacNW summer when Seattle gets nine weeks in a row of abundant sunshine.

This isn’t the first time we’ve referenced this rule and it surely won’t be the last. Now more than ever, it’s important to reiterate when regarding the somewhat-new category of highly-sought-after Washington rosés. We’ve offered a few already this year—Isenhower, Mr. Pink, Tranche’s Pink Pape—and these wines were gone in a blink. Without proper planning, one would miss them all together.

Today, we have a leader in the category, perhaps one of Washington’s most popular rosés… ever.

2017 Renegade Rose

Somewhere between killer price and excellent taste is where Renegade’s rosé throne sits. The last decade of growth in Washington has proven that rosé can be great from our corner of the globe, but still, nine times out of ten, rosé wine at this price point will be saignee juice, bled off from must whose destination is red wine. They’re not always bad, but they’re definitely not always good.

Renegade falls into a much rarer category of sawbuck rosé—wine made from grapes that are actually picked specifically for rosé. In the case of the 2017 Renegade, it’s made from 46% Syrah, 26% Grenache, 17% Mourvedre, and 11% Cinsault from the Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, and Wahluke Slope, all picked specifically for rosé and then whole cluster pressed. The result is a delightful summer sipper, perfect patio pounder, boat buddy, camping companion, or hiking hero with a screw top at 12.5% listed alcohol.

The aromatics on the nose evoke its summer status—a combination of roadside strawberry, freshly squeezed grapefruit, and watermelon (pink and green; flesh and rind). The palate follows suit—rippin’ citrus acidity and matching minerality coursing through notes of berries, stone fruit, and melon. Though it’s mouthwatering and juicy, there’s always a touch of texture to Renegade’s rosés, which is a pleasant surprise at the dining table if a bottle happens to make it all the way to autumn. (And also at that autumn table, a whole roasted chicken or bucatini with anchovy, garlic, and plenty of olive oil.)

Full Pull The Renegade

Hello friends. One of the best things about our emerging wine neighborhood south of downtown is the company we get to keep. Some of our favorite Washington winemakers—vintners that have graced the pages of well-respected review publication, newspapers, and Full Pull’s own e-mails—are now our neighbors. They are where we go when we’re in need—like for a cup of sugar or an emergency Grenache.

When Trey Busch and his team opened up shop on the north side of our little complex, we were elated. It meant being walking distance from the cult wines of this magical winery—but also that much closer to one of our favorite Washington wine projects, Renegade Wine Company.

For those of you new to the workings of Renegade or in need a quick reminder of what this program is all about: imagine a winery sitting on barrels of wine that they don’t want to release under their own label. There are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case (and you’ve seen some of the fruits of this type of situation under the Full Pull & Friends label). Regardless of the reason, the Sleight of Hand team will purchase the barrels, bottle the wine under the Renegade label, and frequently sign a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice. The results are always high-quality wines from the top tier of Washington wineries at very accessible pricing. We all get to benefit from Trey Busch’s deep connections in the Walla Walla Valley with this extraordinary value project.

2016 Renegade Rosé

The Renegade Rosé might just be one of Washington’s most popular rosés… ever. This little rosé that could has won Seattle Magazine’s best rosé of the year two years in a row—and that’s in a blind, multi-judge setting, up against much more expensive versions. This bottle delivers for the price, and fits the bill for a perfect patio pounder, boat buddie, camping companion, or hiking hero with a screw top.

Renegade’s Rhône blend rosé (69% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 9% Grenache & 7% Mourvedre) has aromatics of all the fruit you would eat on a hot summer day—watermelon, strawberry, peach. The palate is bright, with plenty of acidity, and opens into the melon and berry profiles of the nose. Moving into some green-yet-decidedly-fruit notes—think little kiwi berries—the finish is tart. Overall the wine is a touch more serious than years before, yet incredibly approachable. It’s just light enough to drink on any given afternoon, but also perfect for pairing with delicious creamy cheeses or any whole roasted bird.

2014 Renegade Merlot

The 2014 vintage of Merlot from Renegade is all single vineyard Walla Walla fruit. According to the Sleight of Hand folks, it comes from “one of the top new-ish (maybe 6-8 years old?) plantings in the valley, from a very exciting part of WW, so it is pretty unique.” Paul is convinced that means it comes from either Sevein down south or one of the new sites in the Mill Creek drainage, and he’s leaning Mill Creek based on the flavor profile. Trey and his team are steadfastly guarding the secret. This wine saw some pretty fancy wood and aged in barrel for 25 months—a bit of a change from Renegade’s usual style, which sees less aging and oak. This is high quality juice, which is why the Renegade team decided on this slight departure of style.

It opens with knockout aromatics of black cherry and plum—followed by a slight touch of cocoa. Like all the best merlots from Washington, this wine carries some oomph through killer structure, with higher than expected acidity and tannins. The palate finishes with bitter dark chocolate and espresso, rounding out the bright, red fruit with a touch of earth and spice. If you’re of the camp that still protests merlot because of Sideways and years of subpar California specimens, do yourself a favor and sample this bottle. The price point won’t break the bank, and you may find that Washington Merlot is a totally different beast.

2014 Renegade Cabernet Sauvignon

I keep coming back to this age-old saying—almost a joke now in the winemaking world—that cabernet should taste like cabernet. Sometimes, when you buy a cab, you want it to taste exactly like you expect a cab to taste. Beautiful fruit notes of black cherry, black currant and blackberry; savory notes of pepper and tobacco with a hint of leafy greens; perhaps a little bit of vanilla and texture from some fancy oak treatment. That is exactly what the ‘14 Renegade Cabernet Sauvignon delivers—a cab worthy of the name. And more than worthy of a $15 price (I suspect this would hold its own in a blind flight of Cabs in the $30s).

This wine is sourced from “top vineyards in Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla,” though we aren’t told exactly which ones. Like the Merlot, the Cabernet spent 24 months in barrel, in a mix of expensive new French oak and neutral wood.
First come first served up to 72 bottles total, and the wines should arrive in a week or two, at which point they will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

Full Pull Renegade

Hello friends. We have the return today of a wine that has become a list mainstay; a killer Grenache (mostly) from the rocks of the Walla Walla Valley:

2014 Renegade Grenache

I believe we’ve offered every vintage of this wine that has existed, beginning with the 2009 vintage and continuing through today. Why? Because it is exceedingly rare to find Washington Grenache at $15, especially one with a backbone from rocks district fruit.

Now then, a quick reminder of what the Renegade program is all about. So, imagine a winery sitting on barrels of wine that they don’t want to release under their own label. There are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey Busch (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and frequently signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice. Here’s what we can disclose about this Grenache:

1. It mostly comes from a youngish vineyard in the rocks district of the Walla Walla Valley (same vineyard source as previous vintages), blended with a little bit of fruit from Snipes Mountain. Hence the Columbia Valley designation this year.

2. The rocks vineyard sells fruit to a very small number of wineries, all of them among the finest Rhone producers in Washington. The majority of this juice came from one of those three wineries.

3. This was fermented with 100% stems and aged for 16 months in neutral barrels.

4. This is delicious Grenache, evocative of its unique origins: the ancient cobbles of the Walla Walla River. And as I’ve mentioned so many times you’re probably bored of hearing it, 2014 was an outstanding vintage for value wines. Because it was both high-quality and high-yield, a lot of excess juice normally destined for higher-end bottlings was cascaded down to the value tier. The biggest winners in this situation: us.

It clocks in at 14.5% listed alc and pours into the glass pale ruby, a reminder that Grenache in Washington can look quite delicate (almost like Pinot Noir), especially if it’s not blended with deeper-pigmented Syrah. That paleness, however, belies the power and richness inherent to this wine. It begins with a nose of raspberry and Kalamata olive, pink pepper and herbes de provence (with extra lavender); an attractive nose, and very evocative of Grenache. In the mouth, what you notice right away is the complete lack of rough edges. This is a soft, easy drinker, such a charming wine texturally that you could be forgiven for missing its complexity. But it’s there in spades. This is characterful, well-priced Grenache, and it put me in mind of an olive-studded lamb tagine.

We’re catching this one at its end of vintage, so this is likely to be a one-and-done deal, with no reorders possible. Please limit order requests to 24 bottles, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wine should arrive in a week or two, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

2013 Renegade Grenache Walla Walla Valley

Hello friends. We have the return today of a wine that has become a list mainstay; a killer Grenache from the rocks of the Walla Walla Valley:

I checked our records, and this is the fifth vintage in a row that we have offered. I believe we’ve offered every vintage of this wine that has existed, beginning with the 2009 vintage and continuing through today. Why? Because where else can you find any Washington Grenache (let alone from the rocks) at $15?

Now then, a quick reminder of what the Renegade program is all about: A winery is sitting on barrels of wine that it doesn’t want to release under its own label. There are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey Busch (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and frequently signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice. Here’s what we can disclose about this Grenache:

1. It is single-vineyard, from a younger vineyard in the rocks section of the Walla Walla Valley (same vineyard source as previous years).

2. The vineyard sells fruit to exactly three wineries, and they are three of the finest Rhone producers in Washington. These barrels came from one of those three wineries.

3. This is delicious Grenache, evocative of its unique origins: the ancient cobbles of the Walla Walla River. It is true to the warmer vintage, clocking in at 14.3%, and texturally is reminiscent of that first vintage in 2009. It pours pale and garnet, a reminder that Grenache in Washington can look quite delicate in the glass (a la Pinot Noir), especially if it’s not blended with deeper-pigmented Syrah. That paleness, however, belies the power and richness inherent to this wine. It has a wonderful naughty rocks brackishness, a saline kick to pair with notes of brambly raspberry fruit, gravelly minerals, beef stock, and olive brine. Floral notes add lovely inner mouth perfume and keep things fresh and vibrant, but ultimately this is a hefty mouthful of richly-fruited, generous Grenache.

Like in previous vintages, this provides terrific value for the tag. First come first served up to 36 bottles, and the wine should arrive in the next week or two, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

2012 Renegade Grenache Walla Walla Valley

Hello friends. We have the return today of a wine that in a few short years has become a list mainstay; a killer Grenache from the rocks of the Walla Walla Valley:

The deal this year: Trey has exactly eight barrels of this juice. The wine was bottled in February and just shipped over the mountains two weeks ago. The 2010 and 2011 vintages of this were massively popular among our list members, so I don’t want to waste any time hitting send on this. Let’s advocate for our share before most other accounts know this wine has landed.

A reminder of what the Renegade program is all about: A winery is sitting on barrels of wine that it doesn’t want to release under its own label. There are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and frequently signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice. Here’s what we can disclose about this Grenache:

1. It is single-vineyard, from a younger vineyard in the rocks section of the Walla Walla Valley (same vineyard source as the 2010 and 2011).

2. The vineyard sells fruit to exactly three wineries, and they are three of the finest Rhone producers in Washington. These barrels came from one of those three wineries.

3. This is delicious Grenache, evocative of its unique origins: the ancient cobbles of the Walla Walla River. On pop and pour, it displays Grenache’s fruity core, all summery and brambly raspberry and strawberry. But with time and air, notes that start out as subtleties emerge with more force: smoky bacon fat and a brackish/marine element, somewhere between green olive and seaweed. Where this differs from the previous two vintages is texturally. While the cooler 2010 and 2011 were notable for their briskness and energy, this down-the-middle vintage (14.2% listed alc) is notable for its richness, its generosity. There is terrific complexity here, a real swirling stew of rich fruity elements and savory umami elements.

Like the previous two years, this provides terrific value at this tariff. First come first served up to 36 bottles, and the wine should arrive in about a week, at which point it will be ready for pickup or shipping during the next temperature-appropriate shipping window.

2011 Renegade Grenache Walla Walla Valley

FP In The News UPDATE: I’m thrilled to announce that we have been included in Wine Enthusiast’s 40 Under 40: America’s Tastemakers feature, which will run in their June print issue but which is available online now. I say the “we” in “we have been included” on purpose, because despite my name being the one listed, this “tastemaking” is without question a collaborative endeavor; one that has involved the whole Full Pull team, a wonderful, deeply knowledgeable cadre of winery/distributor/importer reps who we love working with, and of course our never-afraid-to-be-vocal list members. I hope you all feel as much pride and ownership of this recognition as I do.

Now I know the natural next question: wait, Paul’s under 40? Yes, it’s true. Despite the copious grey hair earned during the existential angst of my 20s, I am still a few years shy of that particular milestone. Let’s just hope I’m still around for the 80 Under 80 feature in 2057!
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Fortunately, we have a terrific offering today to help celebrate further. Following on our Rotie VdP offering of a few weeks ago, this is another one of those terrific opportunities that only happens by schlepping out to Walla Walla and sniffing around. If that’s what it takes, so be it. I’m happy enough in the role of the Merry Schlepper.

The deal this time: Trey has exactly eight barrels of this juice. The wine was bottled yesterday and will be shipped over the mountains in the next few weeks. Our list members have dibs, and if we want all eight barrels, we get all eight barrels. The 2010 vintage of this (which we offered last May) was massively popular among our list members, and since 2011 was a similar vintage, I suspect this will be similarly well-loved.

A reminder of what the Renegade program is all about: A winery is sitting on barrels of wine that it doesn’t want to release under its own label. There are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and frequently signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice. Here’s what we can disclose about this Grenache:

1. It is single-vineyard, from a young vineyard in the rocks section of the Walla Walla Valley.

2. The vineyard sells fruit to exactly three wineries (last year it was two, but they picked up another great client in the interim), and they are three of the finest Rhone producers in Washington. These barrels came from one of those three wineries.

3. This is killer juice. A fresh, summery nose of raspberry and rosemary gives way to a rich, plush palate, with garrigue-dusted raspberry and pomegranate fruit. With time and air, complexities of mineral and meat and brine emerge, reminding you of this wine’s unique origins: the ancient cobbles of the Walla Walla River.

Like last year, this is wildly strong for the money, and continues my belief that 2013 is the year of value Rhone wines in Washington. First come first served up to 36 bottles, and the wine should arrive in a few weeks, at which point it will be available for pickup or shipping during the spring (or possibly autumn, depending on location) shipping window.

Two 2010s from Renegade

Hello friends. We have dibs today on an exciting set of new releases from Trey Busch’s Renegade project.

This is an offering that underscores the importance of getting out into wine country. I was in Walla Walla in mid-April, and during my visit with Trey, he let me taste six different wines that were potential future Renegade projects. Two of them were knee-buckling good, and when I shared that opinion with Trey, he offered to let our list have initial access to the wines before the at-large market gets its shot.

At the time, based on the quality of the juice, I assumed the wines would be in the Renegade Reserve tier, which would have been $19.99 ($17.99 TPU). Instead, Trey has chosen to slot them into the main Renegade label, which makes these some of the finest QPR wines we have offered this year.

A reminder of what the Renegade program is all about: A winery is sitting on barrels of wine that it doesn’t want to release under its own label. There are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and frequently signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice. Here’s what I’m permitted to say about these wines:

1. Both are single-vineyard, from the same young vineyard in the rocks section of the Walla Walla Valley.

2. The vineyard sells fruit to exactly two wineries, and they are two of the finest Rhone producers in Washington. These barrels came from one of those two wineries.

3. Finished alcohol is moderated by the cooler 2010 vintage: 14.1% for the Grenache and 13.8% for the Mourvedre.

2010 Renegade Grenache Walla Walla Valley

Trey wound up with 7 barrels, which translates to 175 cases. A stellar Grenache, this is stylistically right up my alley. The aromatics display wonderful focus and purity, a laser beam of strawberry fruit and strawberry blossoms. In the mouth, this manages the rare feat of being high-toned (the inner-mouth perfume is beautiful) while also displaying good richness and generosity of fruit. There is also a lightly meaty character, a savory nuance that reminds you where these vines live: in the cobbles of the ancient Walla Walla River.

If there’s a better domestic Grenache at this price point, I haven’t tasted it.

2010 Renegade Mourvedre Walla Walla Valley

The more limited of the two, with just 75 cases produced, and also the more rocks-expressive of the two: a riot of gamey, meaty notes, briney olives, and cracked pepper, much more about savory character than overt fruit, although there is a lovely plummy character in an understudy role.

I’m not so sure about typicity here (tasted blind, something tells me I’d lean more towards Syrah), but this one is more about sense of place than sense of grape, and it does sense of place exceptionally well.

Once these hit the open market, there’s no telling how fast they’ll go, so reorder prospects are fuzzy. But for now, wedding- and party-wine seekers: two more excellent candidate have arrived. First come first served up to 72 bottles total, and the wine should be delivered in about a week, at which point it will be available for pickup or shipping during the autumn shipping window.

Three from Renegade

Hello friends. Let’s let poet and Cabernet enthusiast Alfred, Lord Tennyson open this offering (excerpted from Locksley Hall):
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[WITHHELD]
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That last line seems to be especially true this year. In the last two weeks, I have heard from no fewer than five Full Pull list members that marriage plans are afoot. Wedding wine has been the subject of each inquest, and when I ask about the type of crowd expected, variations of a similar theme emerge: “this is going to be a group of big drinkers.” I believe this list knows how to celebrate.

In honor of all the impending nuptials and other summer parties, we have today’s offering: three new wines from Trey Busch’s Renegade project; one white, one pink, one red, and all priced under $10. Rocking parties have been made from less than this:

2011 Renegade Chardonnay

First, a quick reminder of what the Renegade program is all about: A winery is sitting on barrels of wine that it doesn’t want to release under its own label. In our current financial climate, there are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and frequently signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice.

All I know about the source for this Chardonnay is that it comes from four different vineyards, and one of them is Evergreen. I also know that it was done all in stainless steel, and that the finished alcohol is a moderate 13.2%. What I don’t know, but suspect from the texture, is that this went through at least partial malolactic conversion and likely saw some lees-stirring. There is a creaminess to the mouthfeel that points me in that direction. Aromas and flavors are very much cool-climate Chardonnay, mostly tree fruits (pears, apples), with notes of green plantain as well. It’s medium-bodied and easy-drinking: a lovely mid-week sipper, and priced accordingly.

2011 Renegade Rose

Nine times out of ten rosé wine at this price point will be saignee juice, bled off from must whose destination is red wine. These are easy to pick out because they either have high alcohol (14%+) or notable sugar.

More rare at this tariff (and more favorable to this palate) is wine made from grapes picked specifically for rosé, and that’s the case here. The alcohol here is 12.5%, and this drinks dry. I’m not sure why any winery needed to sell this juice to Trey on the bulk market, because I have certainly tasted rosé in the $15-$20 range that I didn’t like nearly as much. No matter; we’ll take it.

The blend comes entirely from Rhone varietals: 87% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 3% Grenache. The aromatics are very summery, a combination of watermelon flesh and watermelon rind. The palate is a summer fruit salad, with notes of honeydew, watermelon, and banana. There is a eucalyptus topnote that keeps things fresh, and this drinks with plenty of energy and briskness. Add one hot deck and one cold fridge for a small summer ecstasy.

2011 Renegade Red Wine (Columbia Valley)

The new Columbia Valley Red is out, and Trey could have labeled this Cabernet Sauvignon, as it comprises a full 80% of the blend. The remainder is 19% Merlot and 1% Malbec, and all Trey will say is that this comes from vineyards in the Yakima Valley and on the Wahluke Slope. I have some guesses, but I’m not going to share them here (seeing as how I’d like to continue offering Renegade wines in the future).

And really, at this tariff, we’re probably overthinking things if we need to know the source of every last grape. This one is more about sensual pleasures than intellectual pursuits.

I’m guessing, judging from this wine’s profile, that it saw little (if any) in the way of new oak. What this has going for it is wonderful purity of fruit, with good Cabernet aromas of crème de cassis and black cherry. There is unexpected complexity, too: a nice nuance of pipe tobacco. When I see 2010 Cabernet, I worry a little, because it was a cool year, and Cabernet is a thermophilic grape. But this must have come from warm sites, because it has plenty of richness to its flavors of ripe black cherry and black olive. The fruit here seems to be punching well above its price class.

Wedding planners, summer party planners, have at it. First come first served up to 72 bottles of each. The wines should arrive in about a week, at which point they will be available for pickup or shipping.

2010 Renegade Reserve Malbec

Hello friends. We have first dibs today on a killer new Renegade project from Trey Busch.

Only 40 cases of this are available. Because of our list’s long, strong support for the Renegade program, Trey has offered us as much of that 40-case chunk as we can handle. If we have demand for all 40 cases, we get all 40 cases. Any leftovers will be sold, as futures, to other restaurant/retail accounts. This wine will, for certain, be completely sold out by the time it hits the ground in Seattle (early March).

A quick reminder of what the Renegade program is all about: A winery is sitting on barrels of wine that it doesn’t want to release under its own label. In our current financial climate, there are a myriad of reasons why this could be the case. Regardless, Trey (whose main label is Sleight of Hand Cellars) purchases the barrels, bottles the wine under his Renegade label, and sometimes signs a non-disclosure agreement regarding the source of the juice.

In some cases, there is very little information about what’s in the bottle. In this case, I have managed to wrangle, cajole, beg a good bit of information out of the head renegade. Here’s what we know:

1. This is single-vineyard, and we know the (outstanding) vineyard source: StoneTree. I just wrote about this Wahluke Slope vineyard (located here), farmed by Tedd Wildman, a few weeks ago, and it’s amazing to see this site continue to skyrocket up the charts of important Washington vineyards.

2. We know the vintage, 2010, the first of two cool vintages in a row in Washington. A vintage that was nervewracking for most of the summer, it ended up with enough nice weather in autumn to turn the tables, becoming a potentially classic vintage in the mold of 1999: long hang-times, good ripeness at moderate alcohols, terrific acid set. Recall that StoneTree is one of the warmer sites in Washington. Warm site, cool year, balanced wine.

3. We know the barrel regimen: The wine spent 15 months in exactly two barrels, both of them 3-year-old French; not exactly neutral, but far from new.

4. We know this was originally intended for a winery in the Walla Walla Valley.

5. We know the wine will be delivered in early March and will not be available for reorder.

This is a seriously strong Malbec, strong enough that Trey has bottled it under the “Renegade Reserve” label. Where there have been many Renegade wines, I think you can count the number of Reserves on one hand.

Putting together this offering has been like something out of a John le Carre novel (Tinker, Tailor, Winemaker, Malbec?). Bits and pieces of information have emerged over time. A sample was overnighted to me from Walla Walla, arriving in an anonymous brown shipper. When I opened it, the bottle looked more suited to olive oil than wine and had a “Ray’s Boathouse 50th Anniversary” label on it.

But the juice inside was magic.

My issues with Washington Malbec have never been about quality; only about price. This bottle has both: high quality and competitive tariff. It’s a fine reminder of the potential that this grape has in Washington. When it’s at its best (like this bottle), it blurs the line between Malbec’s old-world home of Cahors and its new-world stronghold of Argentina. Here you get glimpses of a fine Cahors – a big rocky-mineral spine, chewy black-tea tannins – and the generosity of cocoa-dusted fruit we’ve come to expect from Argentine versions.

A beautiful wine to look at, it’s positively resplendent in its youthful, inky, glass-staining black-purple. The aromatics speak of something exotic to come: flinty minerals and mountain berries and violets and English breakfast tea. There is a sense of depth and palate-weight without heaviness; this exudes balance and class rare for an under-$20 tariff.

Please limit order requests to 12 bottles, and we’ll do our best to fulfill all requests. The wine should arrive in early March, at which point it will be available for pickup or shipping during the spring shipping window.

2009 Renegade Red Wine Columbia Valley

The allure of offering the Renegade series is akin to the allure of The Goonies: there’s just something about a treasure hunt that stirs the soul.

Each Renegade bottle is its own mystery, with its own dusty-attic map. One Eyed Willy (Trey Busch) sits alone on his ship, and he ain’t talking.

So it’s left to us to interpret the clues, decipher the mystery. Here’s what we know: 1) the blend: it’s 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, so technically, this could be labeled Cab; 2) the basic oak regimen, which is almost entirely used barrels, with just a touch of new wood; 3) the AVAs: Yakima Valley and Wahluke Slope; 4) the vintage: 2009; 5) the listed alcohol: 13.8%.

Those last two clues are especially important. Frequently forgotten, after the chilly 2010 and 2011 vintages, is that 2009 had its own challenge: a relatively early freeze (October 11) that put an end to ripening across much of the state. Fortunately, 09 was an early-ripening year, and it has been estimated that as much as 80% of the crop load was already picked by Oct 11.

But still, in some cooler sites, the warning klaxons started ringing in early October, with their message clear: pick now, whatever the sugar levels, or don’t pick at all. This resulted in some lovely 2009 roses during the summer of 2010, and also some lighter-bodied reds, like this one.

At 13.8% listed alc, this is certainly on the lighter side for Washington Cabernet, and it saw barely a whisper of new oak. So what we’re left with is a pure, high-toned expression of Cabernet fruit. The aromatics fall squarely on the red-fruit side of Cab; redcurrant and raspberry, and a familiar childhood aroma too: strawberry Pez perhaps? In the mouth, the parade of red fruits continues, interwoven with light savory elements of braising greens and brewed coffee. All told, this is skillfully done and delivers fine value at the price point.

Here’s my guess: this was fruit from some sturdy growers (they have to be sizable; production of this is 2200 cases) on the Wahluke Slope (think Milbrandt sites) and Yakima Valley (maybe Olsen Estates, maybe Airfield Estates, maybe something else; the Yak is a big place), that in a normal year would have gone into bottles in the $15-$25 range. Because the juice didn’t fit into the usual stylistic profile of the portfolio, it was bulked off to One Eyed Willy, who made the blending decisions, and put together an awfully nice spring red for us Goonies to enjoy.

First come first served up to 24 bottles, and the wine should arrive in about a week, at which point it will be available for pickup or shipping during the spring shipping window.